Evaluatrix

В Scent&Chemistry практически поингредиентный разбор Nudiflorum Nasomatto.

После которого у меня лично паззл сложился окончательно.

As a little compensation to the low stars of Alessandro Gualtieri's perfumes in the Turin–Sanchez guide (an average of 1.43 ★ translating to 'avoid'), let's smell his latest one: 'Nudiflorum' (Nasomatto, 2018), his interpretation of a tender touch on bare skin: Natural, primitive and sensual. Of course Jasminum nudiflorum Lindl. is also a plant, and commonly known as winter jasmine, which is how 'Nudiflorum' starts out: sharp in banana-jasmine direction, hinting at benzyl acetate, i.e. shiny new nail polish. This then is blushing in the rosy glow of his cinnamic signature rose accord made from phenylethanol and phenylpropanol with cinnamyl alcohol underscored by a rhubarb tonality. This fruity rose is then morphing from hard to soft in the evaporation profile as herbal lavender and fruity raspberry nuances unfold with geranyl and neryl acetate. Then there is some further softness in the form of hydroxycitronellal, before this floral bouquet gets rinsed by the transparent fresh hesperidic jasmineness of Hedione.

Warmth is conveyed by an ionone combo around Isoraldeïne, and at that point an oakmoss theme is setting in to soon attain a radical leathery twist by an isobutyl quinoline base. Sandalwood, Iso E Super and Vertofix fill out this mossy leathery animalic fond and Javanol and Ambrox provide the typical Gualtieri signature before the musks in the fond take over control for the final dry down together with benzyl salicylate for some balsamic reverberation of the mossyness.

Thus, the theme of 'Nudiflorum' is raw jasmine meets leather and oakmoss with a nice animalic sensuality, sharp and clean, quite radiant and longlasting. 'Nudiflorum' is modern in its bright but herbal floralcy and ambery punch, but at the same time also retro in its oldfashioned oakmoss and leather appeal. This is not the usual soft suede story, still it remains transparent and indeed feminine though the ingredients sound dedicated for a leathery-ambery fougère. Definitely something to smell and definitely something standing out in the perfumery shelves of today. Though dead since 2014, Nasomatto seems more alive than ever! Apparently enjoying its part in the "bullshit niche" as Turin and Sanchez called it in 'The Guide'.

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